Frank & Dean Café x Kitchen is the only "third wave" coffee place—that is, a place that buys coffee based on its origins and its method of production—in the Bonifacio Global City area. Its interiors have an industrial yet homey feel, with steel-backed upholstered chairs, lighting fixtures with metal frames, wood wall panels and brick accents. The big blackboard menu complements the trendy atmosphere. I spied a big group of corporate folks having a meeting during my visit. It seems like a good place to do meet-ups or simply hang out with your cup of joe.
Getting food inspiration from travels
I assumed that this independently owned and operated coffee shop would serve typical café fare like sandwiches and pastries, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that there’s actually pizza and fried chicken!
"Before we started putting up Frank & Dean, we already knew it was going to be about: first and foremost, coffee, fried chicken and pizza," said managing partner Miguel Escueta. "Mainly because Filipinos love coffee shops, pizza joints, and they love fried chicken. The goal was really to create great products and offer it in a hip and cool place.”
Indeed, coffee is front and center, as apparent in the list of menu items on the blackboard, the coffee machine in the counter, the word “coffee” in blue neon lights, and the little conversation pieces scattered around the area.
This is not Escueta’s first food venture. He is also a co-owner in Pablo’s Pub and Restaurant, inspired by Pablo Escobar. He and business partners Nicolo Villonco, Tania Villonco and Jam Mabanta thought of naming the coffee shop after someone famous as well—thus, Frank & Dean, after Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin.
“[It’s] very Rat-Pack inspired,” said Escueta. “The first floor is really about coffee and brew. If you walk up, our alcohol display will be there, and a lot of drinking has been happening in the al fresco area.”
Though he doesn’t have formal culinary training, Escueta's travels inspired him to venture into the food business. “This inspiration [for Frank & Dean] really sprung forth from the traveling we did in New York—the chicken and waffle thing is very in, New York-style pizza, and the coffee shop. Everything is in,” he said.
Coffee and doughnuts
Frank & Dean opens as early as 7 a.m., perfect for those who live in the nearby residential condominiums or offices, and dishes up all-day breakfast fare that’s not your usual “silog” meal.
Stand-out dishes are the Truffle Scrambled Eggs (three eggs, drops of truffle oil, homemade hash), One-Eyed Jack (over-easy egg, brioche slices, ham, cheddar, drizzled with parmesan and maple syrup), Eggs Ben on Brioche (two poached eggs, bacon strips, hollandaise sauce), and Salmon Rosti (smoked salmon, homemade hash, sour cream, capers, arugula, poached egg). From 7 a.m. to 10 a.m., these all-day breakfast meals come with free basic brew.
But the true must-tries are the F&D pizza and the Southern fried chicken with waffles.
I tried the 12-inch, New York-style pepperoni pizza. To consume it, just do the hold-and-fold technique: pick up a slice, fold it, and eat it with your bare hands. Best eaten with the homemade chili powder—just make sure to put only a dash as it is somewhat potent.
I couldn’t leave the place without sampling the Southern fried chicken with waffles. The breading had the right thickness and was flavorful, too. The crispy skin was the best part, but the tender and moist meat deserves special mention as well. I made sure to get a good ratio of skin, meat and waffle with my every bite. It went really well with the homemade gravy.
Even with a full belly, I managed to cap off my meal with Frank & Dean’s basic brew—100% locally sourced Arabica—and a serving of old-fashioned doughnut.
I didn’t bother to put a lot of sugar in my drink since the doughnut was topped with loads of powdered sugar. I just drizzled it with some warm milk and went on to indulge in my daily dose of caffeine. The basic brew was pretty strong—for my standards, at least. I felt my energy perk up right away and it lasted me throughout the day.
The doughnut is another story. Unlike the light and airy ones that I’m used to, this one was more dense and had a sour tinge to the dough, which actually balanced well with the plain powdered sugar topping. Though heavy and filling, I managed to down the whole serving that went perfectly well with my bitter coffee.
Frank & Dean will offer a coffee-doughnut combo soon, so watch out for that! Also, from 10 p.m. to midnight, you can get the doughnuts for 50 percent off.
The establishment is also planning to do Saturday workshops—on coffee, calligraphy, cocktails, "anything under the sun," said Escueta.
I’ll make sure to bring my laptop next time around. — BM, GMA News
Frank & Dean Café x Kitchen (+63 917 835-1335) at Forbes Town Center, Forbes Town Road, Bonifacio Global City is open every day: from 7 a.m. to midnight from Sundays to Thursdays and from 7 a.m. to 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
source: gmanetwork.com
